the terrible traveler

I have to be careful about projecting. My last post titled flight thru purgatory led to an actual experience in hell...... Four days in Delhi was as bad as it can be............ The hotel was nice but located in the seedy part of the city. That may sound harsh but considering that most Americans would consider ALL of Delhi seedy says much........ First is the noise, my room faced the street, so from 5 am to 2am the sounds of horns and motor-bikes rage on. I had to stuff my ears with tissues just to sleep........... The short version of a long story is that the first day I decided to go to an ATM to get some cash. I was given directions from the hotel staff on how to get there but the machine would not accept my card. Returning to the hotel a very nice man with a red-dot painted over his third-eye asked if I needed help (how could anyone with a red-dot be anything but honest?). But he had a partner, the one that owned the Tuk-Tuk (motorized rickshaw) that we took to an ATM that worked. Flush with cash off we went to the Travel Agent for a map of Delhi. Big mistake. I escaped with all my money but barley....... The hotel personnel suggested I get more sleep before tackling Delhi, which I did, sleeping almost 20 hours. On the second day I decided to go to the ATM again. This time another very nice man offered to help but being rested and experienced I brushed him off and made my way to a real bank (one that would qualify as a real bank in 19th century America). A man followed me all the way to the bank when I went inside (past the old guard holding a double-barreled shot gun) he asked what I was doing there, I said I was having trouble with my card and wanted to talk to the teller. He said this was an Indian bank and I should go to the international bank, which I had read about. He put me in a Tuk-Tuk and directed the driver where to take me. We crossed the city and dropped me at another travel agent. There I was held and interrogated about my travel intentions in India I told them I just wanted to get some cash, finally they took me to the ATM but was then strongly advised to make a donation to the poor children of Delhi. 1000 rs and pushed out the door. O.K. twenty bucks but at least I have some cash. When we return to the Tuk-Tuk, sitting in the driver's seat is the same man from the day before, shit, how did he get here. "You owe me money, I waited all day for your return, you owe me money". Another 1000 rs and we finally get to leave, back at the hotel the Tuk-tuk driver shows me a picture of his infant son and so I give him 1000 rs...................... The third day I rented a car and driver to take me to Kerkustra, the center of the universe in Hindu legend and also the place that Krishna delivered the advice to Arjuna about how to deal with the dilemma of fighting friends and family who have stayed from the path of righteousness, know as the Bagavad Gita. It was a great day. The museum, while hokey was informative (i'm looking for a book about all the Hindu God's incarnations). Then off to the giant ghat on the Ganges where, at the Temple, was a wedding being held for about 40 very poor couples. All the pageantry, the colors, the food, magical. At some time I may make a separate post about the Sadhus, holy men of India. The afternoon was spent walking, shopping and eating........................ Yesterday I rented another car for a ride to Rishikesh. It is recommended that foreigners stay away from the Delhi train station. Just as well because the ride from Delhi was so full of the real India that would be missed if on a train. The trip included stops in a small village that specializes in yogurt, a visit to a group of men that make sugar, using the same techniques as their ancestors 2000 years ago, I bought some sugar right from the vat, still warm and yellow, the driver says that if I eat a little of the fresh sugar a day I won't get T.B............ I got to see my first in-the -wild monkey. The driver dropped me on the west bank of the Ganges (pronounced gone-ghah). My hotel is on the other side of the river and there are no cars or trucks allowed on that side, there are motorcycles but as far as I can tell there are more cows on the cobble streets than motorbikes. I decided to take the ferry across the river. I don't really have a great attachment to this culture but floating across the Ganges under a partly cloudy sky and surrounded by the foot hills of the Himalayas brought tears...........................This is out the window of my home for the next 4 days.........................................Namaste